Collagen is a protein found in the skin, hair, and nails. It's responsible for giving the skin its elasticity and strength. As we age, our bodies produce less collagen, which leads to wrinkles and mature skin. Collagen-rich products are often touted as being anti-aging, but what are the real benefits?
Applying collagen topically can improve the look and feel of skin in various ways, for example, boosting elasticity and providing a firming and toning effect. Its benefits are well-documented, and collagen has long been used as a key ingredient in lotions, creams, and other products.
Collagen ingredients have developed significantly over the years, with the latest iterations set to boost its many effects. First-generation collagen ingredients were porcine or bovine-derived. These offered around 95% conformity with human collagen but weren't ideal for cosmetics due to irritation concerns. Second-generation collagen was marine-derived, and while results were promising, the product has low molecular weight and low conformity (30%) with human collagen.
Intense research and development efforts have resulted in third-generation collagen ingredients, which are biosynthesized and offer 100% conformity with human collagen. These ingredients are non-animal derived, vegan, and cruelty-free.
This article explores the role of collagen in skin aging and examines the key market trends to look out for.
H2: Collagen and Skin Aging
Collagen comprises amino acids that form a collagen helix—a triple helix of elongated fibril. When applied topically, collagen can help fill wrinkles and fine lines. It does this by binding to water molecules and plumping the skin. Additionally, collagen can help improve the skin's elasticity by stimulating the production of new collagen fibers.
It's important to note that different types of collagen are produced naturally in the body. Type I collagen is primarily found in bone and skin and makes up 80–90% of skin collagen. Type II collagen is found in cartilage, while Type III collagen is most prevalent in connective tissues such as tendons and ligaments. Type III also makes up around 15% of skin collagen. As such, Types I and III should be the primary focus when formulating skin care products.
As we age, our skin loses its elasticity and firmness. This is partly due to decreased collagen production—our body's natural ability to replenish collagen decreases by around 1–1.5% each year. Over the age of 50, collagen levels fall rapidly and the collagen architecture starts to become fragile (Figure 1). This weakening of the skin's structural support reduces firmness and leads to signs of aging.
Figure 1: Type I procollagen production in young and old skin.
H3: COLinus Collagen Active Ingredient
COLinus, produced by Hyundai Bioland, is a bio-mimetic collagen. It is produced using selective culturing of COL1A2, the most effective anti-aging sequence in human collagen. The cloning cultivation process ensures that the DNA sequence of the COLinus collagen protein is a 100% match to the desired chain, far greater than that of marine collagen. It also avoids the irritation issues associated with porcine collagen.
Testing confirms COLinus's collagen synthesis efficacy. Its wound-healing effect is equivalent to that of transforming growth factor beta 1 (TGF-β1), which is used as a positive control (Figure 2). And COLinus-induced elastin mRNA expression is greater than that of epidermal growth factor (EGF). Tests also proved the ability of COLinus to easily penetrate human skin. Compared to marine collagen, COLinus performs far better in procollagen type I expression.
Figure 2: Procollagen type I expression (COLinus VS Marine collagen)
During a clinical study, a cream containing 1% COLinus was tested alongside a placebo on 10 female volunteers. The test product was applied twice daily for 28 days. The study found that the COLinus formulation reduced average wrinkle width by over 13%, wrinkle depth by more than 24%, maximum wrinkle depth by around 33%, and wrinkle indentation index by almost 27%.
H4: Conclusion
Studies show that collagen can be highly effective in improving the skin’s appearance. By filling in wrinkles, stimulating the production of new collagen fibers, and attracting and retaining moisture, collagen can help to reduce the signs of aging and make the skin appear plumper and smoother.
Want to learn more about collagen and how COLinus can transform your formulations? Get in touch today.